The following is the old Catamaran Mantra Operating Manual.

I will be using it as the basis for my new motor yacht Mantra Operating Manual, which is one of my winter projects. 

S/Y MANTRA OPERATING MANUAL 

These notes cover the main operating systems on Mantra and should be useful to people in giving them somewhere where they can look up how to work things, how we go about various operations and where to find things (and where to put them back!).  A subsidiary reason is that it would be of use if ever I were to be incapacitated, which subsidiary reason is why I have included descriptions of certain things which I normally do myself and which I do not want crew to do of their own accord.

The fact that a manual has been produced does not mean that you are being discouraged from asking questions.   Far from it; ask whenever you want to ask.   The operating manual is just to give you somewhere to look it up yourself if you prefer to look it up.   It also saves a whole verbal recital at the beginning and it should be a useful aid to refresh your memory.

The level of detail in this operating manual is pitched at around novice level of sailing and for people who are not familiar with Jeantot Privilège 1470's & 48's and who are not already familiar with the handling characteristics of cruising catamarans.

Suggestions are welcome regarding how to make this more useful as a work of reference for crew new to Mantra.

The manual gives a lot of detail on a lot of subjects.   It is not intended to be totally, exhaustively, all embracing.  It is a companion to the website and does not replace, nor over-ride, the website details.

The manual is structured under the following major headings:

 1 Heads

 2 Hatches & portholes

 3 Where to put your gear

 4 Lighting & switches & VHF

 5 Sailing

 6 Instruments

 7 Log entries

 8 Engines & Motoring

 9 Galley

10 Where things are

11 Generator & inverter

12 Watermaker

13 Safety

14 Pumps

15 Dinghy

16 Laundry

17 Boat work

18 Cockpit & decks

19 Kitty

20 Watchkeeping

21 Cooking (& washing up)

22 Toys & recreation

23 Anchoring

24 Website

25 When you leave

1. HEADS

TO OPERATE THE TOILET

Lift the wood cover. When putting the wood cover back down, ensure the down flap goes into its slot

There is a little lever under the pump handle. Check that the lever towards the front of the toilet is in its forward position (OPEN, FLUSH position) and give it a leisurely pump or two to get some water into the bowl.  If the toilet has lost prime, give it short and fast pumps until it picks up water again.  BUT: take care that you do not pull the handle so far up that it hits the top; and take care that you do not push the handle so far down that it bangs against the bottom at the end of ts travel.   The result of a broken toilet could be a bucket for the rest of the journey!!

Remember that nothing goes into the toilet that you haven't previously personnally eaten or drunk.   No toilet paper down the toilet. It goes in a plastic bag in a bin by the toilet.

After defecating, pump the toilet at least 15 to 20 times so that the waste will go all the way through the outlet pipe and not remain in it to create smells and to fur up the pipe.  If Mantra is under way, then move the little lever by the handle backwards (CLOSED, DRY BOWL position) and pump once or possibly twice (not more as otherwise it could lose prime). This puts the valve in the safety, shut position to ensure water does not seep in under the pressure created by being under way.

It is adviseable to keep the toilet lid down to ensure your towel does not get wet when it inevitably falls sometime.  I prefer that people keep the wooden cover down as well as it looks nicer, which is of particular importance for the galley side cabins, so that the view from the kitchen is not of a toilet bowl!   However you will not be asked to leave if you find it too much trouble to put the wood cover down!!

When pumping lift the handle STRAIGHT up & down, not at an angle.  That way the top seal lasts longer before it starts wetting your hand when you pump.

TO DISPOSE OF TOILET PAPER

At sea, periodically empty the paper into the sea but do not put the plastic bag into the sea as plastic is not biodegradeable.  In port put your plastic bag with its used paper into the garbage as it goes ashore.   Do not be antisocial or unhygienic by putting your plastic bag into the garbage bag while it is still in the galley. 

MALES PEE SEATED

Males are required to sit to urinate.  The alternative (at your own risk) is to go to leeward off the port transom.  The design of the toilet prevents one getting forward enough and it is impossible not to spray & drip which then causes unpleasant smells as well as not helping the woodwork.  Once one is used to it, peeing seated is not a hardship unless one is wearing long trousers, which on a cruising boat is infrequent.

GENERAL RE TOILET

There are spare toilet rolls in the heads and more in deep storage.  Disinfectant cleaner is by the toilet; please use it at least once a week. Make it a Sunday ritual!   Aerosol air fresheners are available.   When defecating, pumping from time to time while seated to get the potentially smelly waste under water and along the the pipe can be an act which is considerate towards others  (but take care that the handle is always in the straight up & down position) so that you do not deform the seal. 

TO SHOWER

For showering take the water head from the basin and hang it up. Please pull it out gradually, using TWO hands, as otherwise the chromed covering will pull loose and YOU will have a terrible job getting it together again or finding a replacement to buy.

Water conservation is important when cruising. One never knows if the watermaker is going to break or if a tank is going to leak and if we are then going to be in a difficult situation. Also, running a generator together with a watermaker just to make water is expensive.    So, wet yourself, then turn off the water while you soap.  If the shower pan's little sump is near full, you have used more water than is normal.

To pump out the shower sump there is a small chromed button between the basin and the door.

Every so often scrape hairs off the gauze which is round the pump inlet.   Less frequently check (& clean) the in-line filter which is under the basin.

If water spurts up the basin outlet when we are underway and either in rough seas or going fast, close the valve under the basin 

To lift out the teak grid covering the shower pan, you might have first to close the door.

At sea (and at anchor) we often shower in sea water on (or from) the PT transom and rinse with fresh water from the deck shower there.   Liquid soap lathers as well as special sea water soap and is very considerably better value. 

THE BASIN (USA = sink)

The basin is made of plastic and breaks easily and I have been totallly unable to buy replacements which can fit without much expensive carpentry & new fittings. So please do not apply any weight other than water to the basin. 

 

2. HATCHES & PORTHOLES 

When opening or closing the hatches, operate BOTH levers simultaneously or each one sequentally a little at a time.  Operating one lever fully and then the other fully causes sufficient strain to break either the corner piece or the locking end of the handle.   This is a design fault, not me being fussy!

The hatches can be latched very slightly open by turning the little lock latches attached to the handles.

The hatches do not have to be opened very high to catch the maximum amount of air.   Do not open them so high that the wind will blow them fully open and flip them backwards and so risk breaking on the deck.  Also do not open them so wide that they chafe the bimini / canopy side panels.

There are two blinds on each hatch.  One filters most of the sun, but lets some air through. The other stops all the sun.   For when we ae in particularly unpleasantly insect infested places, there are battens which secure the sides of the perforated blinds.

If it is raining or there is salt spray coming in please retract the blinds and (rinse salt off) & dry as necessary. When it is raining and when there is risk of salt spray on deck, the saloon and sleeping cabin hatches should be shut rather than letting rain or sea water come in.  The heads are less susceptible to damage from rain, but the varnish does suffer if left wet.

Whenever we leave the boat unattended we either properly shut all portholes and hatches or leave hatches locked on the small latches.

The side portholes let in rain and I prefer that they not be opened at all, particularly when there's even a very slight risk of rain or whenever we are moving.  An exception are the aft cabin portholes onto the cockpit which only have to be closed if rain is going to get in and wet the bed.  The other possible exception is the galley porthole when one actually is cooking.

If someone opens the porthole above the cooker for cooling while cooking, it is their responsibility to close it again as soon as they have finished cooking.

3. CABIN &  WHERE TO PUT YOUR GEAR 

In the aft cabins there is a drawer and a deep two shelf cupboard below it which are available for your use.   Most of the wardrobe is also available for you.  In the heads one of the four shelves behind the mirrors is available.   Roll your bag up and put it in the (dry) bilge which is accessed after removing the ladder.  In the galley side aft cabin part of the lower of the two underbed shelves might also be available for crew use.  The bookshelf and the other shelves & lockers are not available for your use.  Please do not encroach on those; we do not share the space which is not available for your use.  Please also do not put anything other than clothing on the seat or on the bed; apart from the cockpit mattress which is stowed on the inside wall of the double bed in each aft cabin.

Note that the heads in the galley side aft cabin is the heads used by visitors.

The fan works.   Please do not leave it on using battery electricity if you are not actually in bed and needing the fan.

Do not bring cabin bed sheets or pillows out into the cockpit.   There are cockpit cushions.

If you need the space, your personal supply of drinks can be stored in the underfloor (dry) bilges which are under the ladder and by the cabin entry door (take care not to disturb the levers & handles, pump or wires that are in this bilge).  The communal kitty does not provide for people's drinks (nor for their fruit, chocolates, biscuits; nor other in-between-meals grazing items).

Please remember that no food is to be consumed in the sleeping cabins. If any of your grazing items are biscuits or other things that crumble, please also open them in the galley rather than in the sleeping cabin.    If any of your personal provisions come in cardboard, such as cases of beer, please unpack them ASHORE into plastic bags and leave the cardboard ashore.

I go to great lengths to avoid cockroaches (& rats!).    Cardboard, particularly corrugated cardboard, is a real favourite place for cocroaches to lay their eggs, hence the practice of no cardboard getting onto Mantra.  We keep the galley (and the easily cleaned cockpit) as the only places where food is prepared and where there could be crumbs, etc.   The cockpit (and ocassionally the saloon) are the only places where food is eaten and again where there could be crumbs etc.  These carefully adhered to preventive measures coupled with good cleaning of galley, saloon and cockpit are our fist line of anti-roach defence.   We do not have roaches at present and we want to keep it that way.

Passage crew, please keep all your gear and personal provisions in your cabin, other than what drinks are actually in the fridge.    Please do not park belongings (nor bottles) in the saloon, the galley, the cockpit or places other than in your cabin.

See towards the end of sectin 9 "Galley" regarding putting stuff in the fridge.

When sleeping / resting (other than in a secure marina berth) please do not keep your door closed (and do not wear ear plugs).  It may be necessary to attract your attention if help is needed underway or in the case of a dragging anchor.

We try to keep the saloon tidy and uncluttered at all times.

 

4. LIGHTING & SWITCHES & VHF 

In the sleeping cabins the only hidden switch is for the bedside light.  It is under the narrow shelf which runs along the inboard wall.

The electrics panel at the navigation desk is marked in French.

Cockpit light is "projecteur cockpit" third up at bottom left. Compass light is below it. Deck light is "projecteur pont".

Autohelm instruments' lighting is actuated by keeping pressed the left hand button of any instrument until the light comes on.  Turn instrument lights and compass light off as soon as there is enough daylight.

A torch (USA = flashlight) is kept in a clip on the inboard side of the desk by the EPIRB. Another torch is kept in the locker inboard of the wheel.

To switch on navigation lights when sailing, the second switch down on the left is "feu tricolore".  When motoring it is the switch above it "feux navigation" plus the steaming light "feu de hune".   In areas where there is hardly any shipping expected, we rely more on our watchkeeper keeping an effective lookout than relying on other ships seeing us.  The proportion of commercial shipping (let alone small yachts) that appear not to have effective watchkeeping is truly frightening.   Many don't even answer channel 16, which we keep on at all times when on passage.

There is a toggle switch below the left corner of the SSB.   In the UP position it lets the stereo radio / cassette / CD use both cockpit speakers.   In the DOWN position one of the cockpit speakers is taken over by the built in VHF which purports to be a French Ocean, but is really a re-badged Japanese Belden.  On that VHF the dual watch function does not work properly, so we only use it for one channel at a time   On passage the normal position for this switch is DOWN so that if there were someone calling on VHF we would be more likely to notice.

The ICOM VHF works on single, dual or tri watch. We usually have it on tri-watch for 16, chat frequency with other boats and the local coastguard or harbour frequency. The ICOM VHF has a remote (cable) microphone with all controls, so it can be used in the cockpit or at the wheel.  Please do let the ICOM remote be exposed to rain or spray water.

 

5. SAILING 

The genoa is our main pulling sail.  For beating and close reaching it is sheeted in normally on its track.   For broad reaching and running we use another sheet (also used by cruising chute) which runs through a snatch block on midships cleat, then to winch via turning block and clutch.

When unfurling the genoa's roller furler, some tension must be kept on the furling line as otherwise it does not wind properly on its drum.

Catamarans can be difficult to bring about and the penalty for doing it wrong is that the boat stalls into irons and it is then an even more tricky job getting her moving again.   Of the three catamarans I've owned, Mantra is the easiest to tack.    One needs to back the genoa until the boat has sailed through the wind.   One needs also to loosen the mainsheet unless there is good way on as otherwise the mainsail will act like a weathervane and tend to keep the boat headed exactly into wind. 

When raising the mainsail one must remember to loosen the mainsheet so as  to get the luff properly tight. One must also pay attention to not getting the batten ends caught in the lazyjacks.   When dropping the mainsail we concurrently pull in the reefing lines.  Apart from beating, we always use a preventer.   Unfortunately the mainsail cannot be swung out as far as one would like for running as the lower shroud chafes the sail.    The traveller with its more than 20' travel is much used.

We often reef a bit for the night.   We are more inclined to reef early than late.  In daylight we start reefing at around 20 to 22 knots of True wind, though it is not really necessary to reef before 25 to 30.   We do try to reef early.  Cruising chute or spinnaker is snuffed before 15 knots of True wind.

The circumstances when we sail (versus motorsailing or plain motoring) was covered in the Cruising on Mantra web site.

See notes under ENGINES / WIND in the LOG ENTRIES section for wind angle comments.

If you are relatively new to sailing and want to learn more about sail trimming, I can give you basic instruction and you would then know enough to read about using wind telltales and to progress to reading more of the stuff we have on board and then to viewing a video we have on the finer points of sail trimming.

 

6. INSTRUMENTS 

The Autohelm ST 7000 autopilot STANDBY button is for hand steering / manual (rather than the boat being on autopilot control).

We have cable steering (not hydraulic) so it is very important that one does not touch the steering wheel when the autopilot is on AUTO or on VANE or on TRACK.   If we get the Windhunter self steering to work, which I still hope will happen, one must not touch the wheel either when that is on.   Hindering the free movement of the wheel when it is being controlled by a self-steering ram means one is fighting against the ram and can do damage. 

In passage making the important things are to keep the sails from backwind-ing / gybeing and to manage the Cross Track Error (XTE).

The XTE is derived from the GPS and is also shown on the autopilot by pressing the DISPLAY button.   When pressing DISPLAY do not linger on WATCH as that will set the autopilot beeping every 4 minutes unless someone has pressed one of its buttons in the last 4 minutes.

The wind instrument shows the angle of the wind in relation to the boat.   The red and green coloured sectors at the top of the instrument are the angles of wind we usually try to avoid because of the greater attention then needed to keep the sails from flogging or backwind-ing.    We also avoid having the the wind cross over from one side to the other of the 180º angle at the bottom of the instrument (gybeing).

More information about the instruments is given in the Log Entries section, which is next.   If you want to learn even more, ask.

 

7.  LOG ENTRIES 

On passage at night the person on watch makes a log entry each hour on (or close to) the hour.   During the day a log entry is made precisely at noon and at other times, such as 9a00 and 3p00.   Night or day if one misses doing a log entry at the right time, do it as soon as possible after.  In that case show the actual, real time the log entry was done (not the time it should have been done). Do the next log entry at its due time even if you have done a late entry just before.

Our noon position is always plotted on the chart.  When the scale of chart in use and our speed permit it, our position is plotted at the time of each log entry.  Otherwise we mark a plot on the chart at intervals of 3 hours or 6 hours (or even 12 hours), depending on the scale of the chart.   Either the Yeoman plotter or dividers are used for plotting position. 

Information logged and where to find it are:

1 DATE: Only written in at noon and at top of each new page.

1 TIME:  local boat time. 12 hour system with "a" for a.m. and "p" for p.m. used as dividers ie nine in the morning is 9a00

2 LAT/LONG: Latitude & Longitude in degrees and minutes (rounded) Found on Shipmate GPS by pressing POS.   On Furuno it is normally continuously displayed.  Lat & Long are also dislpayed on the computer electronic charting.

3 COG: Course Over Ground found on Shipmate GPS by pressing NAV and reading the number indicated by C

3 BEARING: Bearing to waypoint found on Shipmate by pressing NAV and reading number indicated by B

4 XTE: Cross track error.   NAV on Shipmate,  If Shipmate's boat is to the right XTE is +  If boat is to left XTE is -    Put the + or - sign on the right for +, or on the left for - when you write the number.  This writing the + or -  sign in the log on the left or right of the column as appropriate helps one see at a glance whether we are zig zagging over our desired track and thereby covering unnecessary extra miles.

5 COURSE: Upper figure is from Plastimo steering compass ahead of wheel.   Lower figure is AUTO MAG by pressing HDG as often as needed on Autohelm Multi instrument by desk. Same figure can be got from ST 7000 at wheel.  The satellite derived Course Over Ground shown on the GPS's is the reality of in what direction we have been moving.   The Plastimo steering compass is an accurate reading of only the direction in which the boat is pointing.  The AUTO MAG figure, when autopilot is steering us, shows the course we have told it to try to steer.   We take most notice of the COG figure and then the Plastimo compass's figure.   We use the Autohelm figure for information but not for navigation.

6 BARO: Barometer reading in millibars.  Aneroid barometer is on wall aft of desk.  Electronic barometer is on wall ahead of desk.

7 WIND: Wind speed and direction obtained by pressing WIND on Autohelm Multi and reading WIND TRU (not wind mag) and TRU KTS

8 DISTANCE: Upper figure is distance covered over the ground shown as LOG on Shipmate POS display.   Lower figure is Distance To Go to waypoint shown as D on Shipmate NAV display or as shown on the electronic charting display

9 SPEED: Upper figure is speed over ground shown on Shipmate POS as speed. Lower figure is Autohelm's speed through the water shown as BOAT KTS on Multi's LOG display

10 ENGINE / WIND:When we are motoring the upper figure is port engine's Revolutions Per Minute and lower figure is starboard engine's RPM.  When motoring on one engine, which is the usual case for motoring distances, put the RPM figure in the upper or lower position as appropriate for PT or STB engine and put a line in the position for the not in use engine.    When we are sailing put the apparent angle of the wind shown on Multi WIND as WIND P or WIND S.   Put a P or an S as appropriate before or after the figure.     Put the P to the left of the degrees number.  Put the S to the right. This wind angle figure shows the angle at which the wind is passing over the boat.   If the figure is less than 30º we will not be able to make headway sailing, but would be OK motorsailing.  Also, if the figure is 30º and decreasing we could be likely soon to be in irons / stalled.   If the apparent wind angle figure is between 40º and 50º we will be beating and will have some challenges making effective progress sailing, but could be succeeding depending on the waves.   Between 45º and 60º, we are beating into the wind / closehauled.  If the figure is between 60º and 110º we are close reaching.  If the figure is between 110º and 155º we are broad reaching (the fastest for sailing).  If the figure is between 155º and 180º we are running before the wind.  Note that these wind angles are for Apparent wind ie: after making allowance for the effect of forward movement of the boat.   We use Apparent wind for sail trimming.   We use True wind for decisions on which sail to use and we use True for decisions on when to reef. The wind instrument by the wheel can display either True or Apparent.   Which display we use depends on whether we are more interested in wind angle (= Apparent) or wind speed (= True).

11 CHECKS: At each log entry write the battery voltage.  This is found on the Link 10 instruments at the front left of the desk.  It is also shown on the Fox voltmeter ammeter instrument marked Air Marine just under the lid of the STB engine compartment.    Battery voltage is a crucial figure.  See below.  Other checks made at time of doing a log entry are:

Look in each of PT and STB engine compartments to check there is no water that needs pumping out (sea water can come in through the stuffing box or if our domestic hot water tank has sprung a leak or if there's a leak elsewhere or if the watermaker has a leak or there's an exhaust leak).

Also look to see nothing appears unusual, like a loose or broken generator fanbelt.

And listen for any unusual or different sounds.

When an engine is in use check that engine TEMP is OK at fractionally above 180º and no higher.  Check OIL PRESSURE is OK at between 60 and 80. Check that none of the warning lights are lit.   Check that the ammeter at desk for that engine is showing an approriate charge level.

Battery voltage happy figure is from 12.4 upwards and no more than 14.2  If battery voltage shown is at 12.4 check that 12v fridge is shut off (2 on GROUPES FROID at desk electrics panel) and see what else could be shut off.  If battery voltage shown is below 12.4, then start further conserving power.  Shut down freezer (4 on GROUPES FROID), ensure non-essential lights are out, ensure no fans are on, ensure only one GPS is on, ensure that inverter is neither on at desk nor on at far left switch on front of Victron blue battery charger / inverter just past Fox / Air Marine voltmeter in STB engine compartment. Decde if navigation lights can be turned off.  Can radar be put into Watchman mode or onto Standby or turned off.  If it is daylight, first check that solar panels are tilted correctly at the sun. If battery voltage continues dropping and goes below an indicated 12.3, then we have to put autopilot on STANDBY and steer manually, thereby conserving the 6 amps the autopilot uses.  If all that is sensible fails to conserve sufficient battery power from being depleted, then we have to turn on the generator and then work out why the batteries got so low or why they continued going down despite our conservation actions.   Marine deep cycle batteries last for several years if they are never allowed to be run down below 12.4 / 12.35 volts. They will last less long if they are allowed to go below 12.3 volts on a few occasions.    Once they have been run down beyond that they have very few cycles left before they become useless.  Fork lift / golf cart batteries, as installed in December 2002, can be taken lower without damage, but it is wise not to take them below 50%.

 

8. ENGINES & MOTORING

When we motor distances, we run on one engine. The autopilot compensates for the uneven thrust that is coming from only one side of the stern of the boat.

Steering towards destination follows the same principles as for when sailing except that wind direction and keeping the sails drawing no longer apply.

The battery selector large circular switches in the inboard aft cupboard of the corridor on my side are normally set with the left / aft switch (engine batteries) at 2 and the domestic batteries switch at 1. 

When one engine is running: the left switch should be at 2, right switch at both.  When two engines are running: left switch at 2, right switch at 1, ie: switch indicators pointing towards each other.

Engine starting procedure:

Check the throttle has been pulled out sideways into neutral and check there are no hanging ropes. Advance throttle (in neutral) about a fifth of the way.   Turn ignition key clockwise and then release key once engine has started. Check that water is flowing out of exhaust.  Check that alternator charge warning light has gone off.   Let engine warm up at 850 to 1000 RPM for a few minutes and until oil pressure has reached 40 lbs+.   If possible, let engine continue to warm up at 1000 to 1250 rpm and check that ammeter at desk is registering some charge. Then put in gear by centering the throttle, notice it click in, and then move it forwards for forward or backwards for reverse.

The usual rpm range for cruising under power is from 2200 to 2800.   For motorsailing, or slower cruising under power,  the usual rpm is from 1750 to 2200 unless we are trying to get somewhere in daylight.

If both engines are being run together the battery selector switch positions need changing.

When running at over 1500 rpm the oil pressure should be between 60lbs and 80lbs and the temperature sholud be just over 180º F.

Engine Shutdown Procedure

Bring rpm down to 850 to 1000 rpm. Let engine idle for 2 to 5 minutes to cool down a bit.  Decrease rpm to minimum.  Pull out kill switch by engine compartment lid.  When engine has died, push kill switch back in all the way as otherwise engine will not start when needed.   Turn ignition key anticlockwise to OFF. If siling or motoring on the other engine, pull throttle lever back into reverse providing boatspeed is not over 5 knots.   If not moving, leave throttle in neutral.   Ensure battery selector switches are in the appropriate positions.

If engine has only been running for a short time, do not shut it down until it has reached operating temperature and water teemperature is therefore around 180º F.

Ideally, so as to ensure all hydrocarbon gasses have been burnt off, run the engine in neutral at 3000 rpm for one minute before letting it idle to cool down.

I prefer to take the decision myself whether to sail, motorsail or motor and therefore when to start or shut-down the engines.   The engine starting procedure is described in detail so that, in an emergency, the nearest person can start the engine(s).

 

9. GALLEY 

Three of the four gas burners are equipped with flame satety thermocouples which mean that the gas is turned off automatically if the tip of the thermocouple is not heated by a flame.   So when lighting the gas one has to keep the control button pushed down until the thermocouple is heated sufficiently.  Turn the control a quarter turn for maximum flame and the ready to light position. To decrease towards  simmer position, keep turning.  The small burner aft does not have a working flame safety thermocouple.

Have a flame ready lit before you turn the control knob.   Gas can be dangerous and we do not want any unlit gas being let into the boat.

The oven is lit in the same way.

The grill is at the top of the oven.   If someone closes the oven door when the grill is lit, then a safety device turns the gas off. Before lighting the grill pull out a little tray which shields the control knobs from the heat.

The microwave operates on shorepower 220 volts alternating current.  While it can be run off the inverter it draws a horrrific amount out of the 12 volt batteries, so we only run it off the inverter when an engine is being used.  Otherwise we use the microwave when the generator is running.

Likewise for the electric toaster. Toast can be made under the grill when 220 volt power is not available.

There is an extractor fan above the hob.   Unfortunately it needs 220 volts. Also its mushroom vent on deck needs to be unscrewed a few turns when the extractor fan is in use. The mushroom vent is kept lightly screwed closed when we are moving and when the extractor is not actually being used. This ensures that neither sea water nor heavy rain get in to rust the fan.

The galley sink tap's main control works illogically.  It is up to close.  However there is an open / shut control at the end of the hose. The tap is kept set for a slow flow. Please only use the open / shut control on the tap head, not the main control.  We are never in that much of a hurry that, say, filling a jug in two minutes instead of in one and a half minutes becomes important enough to call for the extra flow which will then result in excess water being wasted when next used for rinsing, etc.

Washing up when at sea is done in cold sea water, followed by a light fresh water rinse.   The sea water foot pump in the galley is by one's left foot when facing the sinks.

Fire blanket is above knife rack, above oven.

The soft table mats are kept behind the knife rack above the oven.

Knives in the knife rack go from largest to smallest, with sharp side away from you.

Spices and condiments are kept on the shelves above the cooker hob.

Saucepans, frying pans, collanders, sieves are kept in the cupboard under the forward sink.  To protect the coating of the pans they are stored with a piece of cloth between each.

Pyrex ovenware, salad serving bowls, mixing bowls, grater, tupperware type plastic storage containers, funnels, scales are kept in the cupboard under the aft sink.

The sinks are difficult to free when blocked.  Scrape waste off plates and cooking dishes and put it in the sea, rather than let it go down the sink.

Coffee & tea are emptied direct into the sea as they leave a stain from the sink outlet under the boat.  That stain is not only unsightly but is very difficult to get at to clean off and is difficult to get off.

At sea all garbage that is degradeable, organic, perishable, will rust or was made from sand goes over the side.   Only plastic and similar man made non degradeable non breakable matter goes into our garbage bag.   We put such plastic garbage into hanging plastic shopping bags in the garbage locker and then put the full bags in dedicated larger bags into the front of the dinghy until we can dispose of them ashore to a dump or by burning.  Plastic bottles, with cap off, also go into the front of the dinghy for future disposal.

On the other side of the set of drawers under the hob is the locker for empty plastic bags.  Please ensure no bags get pushed behind this locker as they will foul the hull bilge pump.

The top drawer is the cutlery drawer.  Except for entertaining or special ocassions, we use the poorer cutlery which is on the left.   Larger serving spoons and skewers are outboard of the cutlery.

The next drawer down has cooking spoons, spatulas, can openers, pasta servers, wooden olive forks and chutney spoons.  Please only use wood or plastic implements when using non-stick pans.  Likewise when washing up do not use a coarse scourer on non-stick pans.

Cleaning materials, oven gloves, cooking pinafore are in the cupboard between garbage locker and the oven.

Crockery is in the forward cupboard above the worktop.   We use mugs rather than cups and each person is allocated a particular mug, which they are asked to use all the time.  Taking someone else's mug because yours needs washing up is a no no.

Sauces, mustards, pickles, stock cubes are kept in the top shelf of the cubpoard next to the crockery cupboard.  Jams, honey, tea, coffee live on the lower shelf.

Cereals, rice, grated parmesan, pasta, salad vinegar & olive oil, sugar, flour, lentils, etc that are in use are in the cupboard above the draining board.

Provisions that are in deep storage and therefore not yet in use are stored under the saloon seating or in the deep freeze.    These deep storage provisions lockers and the deep freeze are accessed ONLY by the one person with designated responsibility for the inventory of provisions.   That person and I share the responsiblity for getting us to destination without having run out of food.

Some other in use provisions are in the fridge which is to the right just before going down the steps to the galley.

The communal kitty does not provide for people's drinks (nor for their fruit, chocolates, biscuits nor other in-between-meals grazing items).

Crew are asked to buy different brands of beer than the brands that Kathy & I are drinking and either to do the same for soft drinks / mixers or to mark their bottles.   This enables one to know what is whose in the fridge.   Fridge space is limited.  Passage crew should not have at any one time more than 1 large bottle, 1 small bottle (or 2 more cans or tiny juice cartons instead) and 4 cans in the fridge.  They should all be at the bottom of the fridge.

Please try hard to avoid buying drinks that are in breakable glass bottles.  Get what is available in plastic bottles or in cans or tetrapak type cartons / boxes when you can.  Obviously, good champagne can only be had in glass bottles and so should be well wrapped!   Coca Cola cans appear to be made of such thin metal that they develop leaks.

 

10. WHERE THINGS ARE KEPT 

This only attempts to cover things that you might need to find when I am not around to be asked.  

Galley items:  See under galley.

Safety items:  See under safety.

Pencil for log entries: In the mug on the shelf forward of the desk.

Rubber eraser: In pens & pencils mug on desk.

Breton plotter:  Behind radar.

Ruler: at right of desk.

Next chart:  Under the Yeoman pad.

Winch handles: In holsters with handle pointing away from blocking the locker door.

Mast winch handle: In holster at front of mast.

Knife:   In keys drawer above EPIRB

Shackle key: In keys drawer above EPIRB

Torch in cockpit: In battery locker by wheel in daytime. Ahead of sheet winch at night. Please note that the torch must not be left closer to the steering compass as it can affect its reading.

Torch at desk: Above EPIRB in clip.

Binoculars:  Steiner binoculars which you are welcome to use are by the EPIRB.  The Steiner binoculars are self-focussing.  Please do not alter the focus.  Please do not use the  Zeiss binoculars.

Personal compass:  Inboard above EPIRB.  This is useful in determining if another vessel is likely to be on a collision course with us or if we are going to miss each other.  If the bearing from us to the other vessel remains constant in readings repeated a few (five if possible) minutes apart, then we are likely to be on a collision course.

Stereo cassette player remote control: Hanging on plug to right STB of electrics panel at desk.   It goes back on the plug.

Tools: In the sternmost two lots of the row of four cupboards on the outboard side of the corridor on my side of the boat.

Clothes pegs:  In the outboard STB locker at the stern of the cockpit.   Laundry is hung either on the guard lines or on a rope and is always hung at the front half of the boat; not round or near the cockpit, nor on rigging or sail sheets. 

PLEASE - PUT THINGS BACK EXACTLY WHERE THEY ARE MEANT TO BE.  They might be needed in a hurry.

 

11. GENERATOR & INVERTER 

I normally turn on the generator, myself.  It turns on by turning clockwise the chrome plated key on the black panel to the right STB of the electrics panel. Half turn the key and count to ten to warm the glow plugs and then turn the rest of the way to start.  Keep key turned until you hear generator has started, then just let go.   That will get 12 volt electricity from the high output alternator on the generator going into our domestic battery banks.  It will not yet get 240 volt alternating current being generated.  To get that I flip the breaker by the electrics panel (rather than turning the black switch on the generator panel in an anti-clockwise direction from OFF to SHIP POWER GENERATEUR which will light the green light next to the word Reseau on the 220 V meter of the electrics panel). When that green light is lit and the meter is indicating between 240 and 250 one is ready to power things off the generator.  When a few minutes have elapsed and the needle has stabilised the first thing I normally do is to switch on * 1 of GROUPES FROID which turns on the compressor for re-freezing the eutectic holding plate of the refrigerator.    Next I turn on 2 and 4 which turn on the motors for the 12 volt refrigerator evaporator plate and the two freezer plates, respectively.

In view of the potentially large power drain from our 12 volt batteries if the inverter is used, I prefer to be the person who decides when to turn on the inverter.  The inverter's rocker switch on the front outboard side of the blue Victron Pallas battery charger / inverter is usually on the AUTO position.   When it is in that position, turning the black switch on the generator panel in a clockwise direction from OFF to SHORE POWER QUAI will light the green light next to the word Reseau on the 220 V meter of the electrics panel. When that is lit and the meter is indicating between 220 and 250 one is ready to power things off the inverter.

 

12. WATERMAKER 

I normally attend to the watermaker.   Before the watermaker can be turned on, the generator has to be generating 240 volts alternating curent electricity.  The watermaker takes a lot of current, so we pay attention to what else is drawing 220 volts and which might need to be switched off.   On the outboard wall of the STB engine compartment is one of the control boxes for the watermaker.   Press the top button marked START.    Place a torch so that one can see the pressure guage which is towards the back of the boat.  Turn black knurled knob to establish pressure, hear hissing. With hand on black knurled knod lean over & look at pressure guage.  Slowly bring pressure to 750 psi (do not exceed 800 psi)

Wait until "safe water" blue light comes on.   Then water will go to selected tank.  To select, use the two valves which are inboard of the watermaker on its shelf;  STB valve sends the water to STB tank; PT valve sends the water to PT tank.  Check that discharge water is coming out into sea below the horseshoe buoy.

When tank is full its top will flex and one will hear it.  Use valves to select other tank, or shut off.   There are also tank guages in the electrics cupboard inboard in my corridor opposite the cupboards where tools are kept.

To shut off turn the black knurled knob anti-clockwise until the pressure guage is showing no pressure reading.  Wait five minutes.  Press the stop button at the remote control at desk.  I then flush the membranes with fresh water.

I prefer to be the person who changes from one water tank in use to putting the other one into use.    To change the water tank which in in use, one opens the floorboard insection panels behind each  door of my cabin and of Kathy's cabin.     First shut the flow of the tank currently in use. Next open the flow to the other tank. Then make an entry in the log.

 

13. SAFETY

The first ingredients for safety are vigilance and being observant and aware.

The main things that can go wrong are gear failure (caused often by chafe or corrosion), weather problems (exacerbated by not being prepared or not being observant), fire (often electrically caused), explosion (caused by letting unlit gas escape), being run down by another ship (would be avoided if our watchkeeping lookout were effective), ditto our running into another ship, colliding with a semi-submerged object or a whale (lookout helps), running aground (avoidable by effective navigation and effective lookout), insufficient water (always conserve water as if the watermaker will never work again), low battery voltage (conserve electricity), inadequate food stocks (buy adequate safety margin and pace one's consumption rate).

Another potentially very significant safety problem is fear itself and the fact that fear is contagious. Any one person's excessive fear can be transmitted to others, thereby causing panic, bad judgement and wrong decisions. For a person to be effective in an emergency situation one should slow down (not rush); and wait to be told what to do.

In an emergency situation the democratic, consultative, let's discuss it and then I'll decide approach DOES NOT APPLY and you must do what you are told, unhesitatingly and right away; but take it slowly, do not rush.

In the event of a holing, a collision, or another catastrophe on the open sea, one does not abandon a catamaran and one does NOT take to the liferaft.   A catamaran, unlike a monohull, does not have a lead keel which will drag it to the bottom if it is holed and loses buoyancy.  A catamaran will continue floating if holed.   One stays with the boat.   One can consider inflating the liferaft so as to have it as an alternate temporary home, BUT one must NOT abandon ship.  An ever present problem with monohull sailors on a catamaran and with people who have been to courses given by monohull sailors is that in their panic they do not understand they are on a catamaran and they go into a knee-jerk reaction of abandoning ship into the liferaft and even want to cut the liferaft loose from the mother ship!!   One of the resons I sold the liferaft off my previous catamaran was to prevent that disastrously wrong reaction.   However we do have a liferaft on Mantra and I am keeping it as it will help in Mantra's eventual sale, especially if sold to people who want to charter. So we stay with the mother ship.   The liferaft is in the centre PT outer cockpit locker and is accessible either through the top of the locker or through the bottom.   The liferaft is not to be touched by anyone other than me.   We have flares in the same locker as the liferaft, with signalling mirror,water, etc and standard emergency rations (we're with the boat and should have access to at least some of our stores).   We also keep a large jerry can of water (whose normal purpose is for re-starting watermaker) in addition to the considerable quantity of water with the liferaft and in that locker.  More flares are in a canister in the inner cockpit aft PT locker.  We keep a few new flares and very many that are past the suggested expiry date.

We have a signalling flaregun and miniflares.  I am the only person who will make a decision to use flares or the flaregun.  The miniflares are in my desk.  The flaregun is kept by the door as it is also a protection against intruders.    Also by the door and in my desk and in my bedroom are pepper spray teargas canisters.

There are bolt-cutters for cutting rigging in the event of a dismasting. The large pair is in the outer cockpit centre PT locker.  A smaller pair is with the tools along the aft wall of third shelf up of aftmost tool cupboard.

Fire extinguishers are: in outer cockpit outer STB locker, gas locker, under steps to galley, under steps to my corridor, in tools cupboard, in the bar. Total of 6 extinguishers.

There is a fire blanket in the galley for use in case something on the cooking hob were to catch fire.   It is above the knife rack, above the oven.

When lighting the gas of the hob burners or the oven or the grill, have a flame lit BEFORE you turn the control knob.  That way there is no risk of unlit gas escaping, accumulating in the bilge and then causing an explosion and fire.   DO NOT turn on the gas and keep clicking a spark lighter until the gas lights.

In the event of our having to summon help, we have an Emergency Position Indicating Radio Beacon (EPIRB).  It is by the desk.  I will decide if and when it is to be activated.   Instructions are on it. It is registered.

We have an SSB radio and one of the reasons I make the effort to be in communication with various nets and radio stations is that at all times there will thereby be people who know where we are and who will worry if we cease making regular contact.

We keep the VHF radio on on channel 16 all day, 24 hours a day.  This is the emergency, distress & calling frequency.  If a ship were on a collision course we would call it to enquire its intentions re passing us; or it would call us.  In practice many ships do not properly monitor 16, despite international maritime law requiring that all vesels at sea with VHF monitor 16 continuously, until, they use the new SOLAS regulations.    We also have frequency 2182 on the SSB as an emergency & distress frequency.  Pasted on the underside of the lid of my desk is the procedure for making a distress call. It will be my decision whether a distress call is made from Mantra.  Distress call can be of three types. Mayday is when the ship (not a person, but the ship) is in imminent danger.  Pan is a less serious message and can also cover the safety of a person.   Pan Pan Medico is an emergency requiring medical advice.  A Securite call is used to transmit important navigational inforation, rather than an emergency.

In each cabin there is a lifejacket.   There are also some old lifejackets in the dinghy.  There are more good lifejackets in the granny cabin.

There are basic safety harnesses in the inner cockpit aft PT locker.

In bad weather wear a harness (and clip it) when leaving the cockpit.

Whenever anyone goes out of the cockpit area either forward on deck or onto the PT transom, they should say they are going forward and someone should acknowledge.  Likewise, if they go to their cabin to rest, and will therefore be out of sight, they should say so, not just disappear.

Do not go out of the cockpit when you are alone. Call someone.

Wear a whistle round your neck when you go out of the cockpit at night or when others may not be concentrating or as observant as they could be. 

In case we are caught out in something really nasty we have a para-anchor.

In the event of a person overboard:  The first thing to remember is not to lose sight of where the person went in.   Not only look but also keep pointing and, if possible, do not look away. Losing the person and not being able to find them is a real danger.   Shout to get someone else if there is a third person aboard or blow a whistle. There are whistles by the top of each transom.   Familiarise yourself with where they are. Quickly throw over a man overboard pole and its horseshoe buoy. It is better to throw the one on the side by the wheel.   It is taller & has a better flag, so will be easier to spot.  It has a light as well as a horseshoe buoy.  With that pole one doesn't have to worry about hitting the Air Marine windmill's blades.  If you throw overboard the pole & horseshoe danbuoy on the PT (dive tanks) side please be very careful not to lift it so high that it hits the blades of the Air Marine windmill. Using the pole on that side one also has to take the cap off the flag at the top of the pole and to turn the light on by twisting its cap,  If sailing let go the sheets, but do not spend time on this; just cast off the sheets.  Quickly go and press the DATA button on the Shipmate GPS or, on the Furuno, press the MOB button.  Then check that the man overboard pole and its floating line are nowhere near our propellors.   Move the two engine throttle levers to the vertical position, pull each outwards to get out of gear; and then forward one third of the way.  Start both engines. Look outboard of each engine to check exhaust water is flowing OK.   Secure the sails from flogging. If there are three people, furl away the genoa and drop the main if the lazyjacks are in place, otherwise centre it unless it is well reefed, in which case leave it until later as, reefed, it will not significantly affect your ability to steer under engines.  All the time keep noting where the person is in the sea.    Then take Mantra back to the person taking care not to lose sight of where they went, not to run them down and not to get the man overboard floating line caught in our propellors.  Use the GPS if you cannot see the pole.  Approach the person upwind of them, ie: have the person downwind of Mantra.    If necessary, throw them the other man overboard pole and horseshoe buoy.    Untie the dinghy painter yellow floating line, secure one end of it, throw it to the person or circle them after dropping it in the water, taking care not to get it round our propellors.  Once the person has the line, get them to tie it to themself and you make sure the boat end is tied.   Ensure throttles are in neutral, turn off engines.   If the person can swim to Mantra, put on your harness and clip it, then lower the bathing ladder.   If the person cannot get aboard unaided, get the truck inner-tube out of the PT centre cockpit locker, drop the mainsail,  secure mainsail cover / lazyjacks, untie the mainsail hallyard from head of sail, keeping tension so that it does not wrap round mast steps, declutch and pull out main hallyard so that it can be tied to truck inner tube and handed to the person overboard.  If the person is able to help in getting aboard but not to the extent of getting up the bathing ladder, get them to the side of the boat making sure they are tied to the boat, put main hallyard on winch and winch away to help them up.   If the person is injured or is a "dead-weight" use traveller to move the boom all the way over to the side you are going to bring the person aboard, use preventer to midships cleat to hold boom right out, you may need to unshackle mainsheet block from boom, put a snatch block on end of boom and lead main hallyard through it, check the person has the truck inner tube under their armpits, winch them up.   If you have to go in the water to secure inner tube to the person make sure you are tied to Mantra. Once you have the person on Mantra, treat for hyperthermia unless water is really warm. Treat for shock. Recover the man overboard pole + horseshoe buoy and any other ropes out of the sea before they foul our rudders or propellors.     Heave to properly or get underway again.   Throttles into reverse if going to be sailing.   Sails stowed if going to be motoring and again check for no floating lines to foul propellors.

It should never happen that we have someone overboard. But, just in case, familiarise yourself with the procedure, how to do the various things, where exactly things are and how they are worked.  It might contribute to saving someone's life.

There is an emergency tiller for steering in case the wheel steering breaks.   The tiller is under the steps into the PT engine compartment.  It goes in a hole at the top of the STB transom, where one has to lift off (and put in the nearest locker) a black plastic circular cover.

 

14. PUMPS 

Engine compartments: There is an automatic bilge pump in each engine compartment but we do not rely on the automatic switch always working.   At each log entry one checks the level of water in each of the two engine bilges, operates the electric pump on MANUAL to empty water if there is any, and notes in the log such need to pump.   To operate the electric pump switch manually press it continuously towards MANUAL.  Remember to put the switch back to AUTO.

There is also a manual (hand operated) pump for each engine bilge.   The pump handle is clipped at the back of the outer cockpit locker nearest to the engine compartment.  The hole that the handle goes in is clearly visible.  Familiarise yourself with where the electric switches and the pump handles are and where they go.

There is also a high output hand operated portable rotary pump.  This is kept on the upper shelf under the galley side aft guest cabin bed.

There are also portable electric pumps.    Two of these are kept in the PT outer cockpit locker.   They plug in to the socket by the wheel or the socket by where my left shoulder would be if I were sitting in my usual place in the cockpit. At electrics panel at desk, switch on projecteur cockpit in NAVIGATION column or prise 12 v externe in POMPES column, respectively.  There is also a 12 volt extension lead in the underfloor locker under the desk chair.   There is another 12 volt extension lead with a French plug in the electrics panel cupboard in my corridor and it plugs in at the right in that cupboard.

Main hulls: Each main hull has an electric bilge pump (not automatic) and a hand operated bilge pump.  To check water level in main hull bilge, lift inspection cover in floorboards in galley or in my corridor, in each case just before my cabin or Kathy's cabin.  You will need a torch.   The switches for these electric pumps are CALE BABORD = PT and CALE TRIBORD = STB in the POMPES column of electrics panel at desk.

The handles for the hand operated pumps for the main hull bilges are in the aft guest cabin PT and Mary's cabin aft STB under the basin. The hole for the pump handle is clearly visible.   Familiarise yourself with where it is.

The bilge pump for the STB bow cabin is switced on by AUXILIAIRE 1 under POMPES at the desk electrics panel. Its outlet is viewed through the STB trampoline.

The bilge pump for the PT bow cabin is also its shower drain pump.   It is switced on by pressing the little chromed button which is in the usual place for a shower sump button. Its outlet is viewed through the PT trampoline.

Checking water level in each bilge and pumping as needed is a part of our Sunday checks ritual.

Diesel fuel is decanted from jerry cans into the fuel tanks either via an electric in-line submersible pump with an in-line filter or by pouring into a Baja filter. Both are kept in the outer cockpit centre PT locker.   Wherever possible, all our diesel fuel is filtered by us before going into our fuel tanks.  I also use biocide and other additives to ensure the effectiveness of the fuel.

 

15. DINGHY 

More accidents happen to people when using dinghies than on their mother ships.  We have a powerful dinghy which can become a lethal weapon if handled inapproriately.  We use the dinghy for its designed purposes, not to express our virility, nor to show off, nor to work off temper.

There is a type of ignition key (black) and a kill switch (red).   If the kill switch is not firmly in place the motor will not run.

Before starting, check that the outboard engine leg is in the water and not in the UP position.  If leg is not in the water, there is no cooling water and the engine will be destroyed very quickly.

When left for some time, like overnight, we lift the leg out of the water to inhibit electrolysis.

To put leg down pull engine up a bit towards you and pull out the black button that is just above the transom on your left.  Once engine is down turn the astern lock clockwise.  It is a flat black pointer at lower front of engine just above transom.   To raise engine, reverse the process, but take care not to burn your arm on the navigation light.

Turn key clockwise to start. Pushing the key in as well as turning it will actuate the choke. Don't give it so much choke as to flood it.  First thing in the morning and when the engine has been up, one needs to pump the primer balloon. Sometimes one needs to lift the idle throttle to start.  The main throttle cannot be operated while the idle throttle is up.

Let the engine warm up.  Check that the pilot stream of cooling water is telling you that cooling is OK. Familiarise yourself with where that is if you are not used to outboard motors.

The outboard is powerful.  Handle it gently.

When possible, we tether the dinghy to Mantra on the mooring whip which stops the dinghy going under Mantra and having hell bashed out of the top of the outboard and Mantra's fibreglass.     Otherwise the dinghy is tethered alongside the PT hull using a floating line to Mantra's bow and another to above the transom.  We put fenders alongside.   The floating line from the bow is parked on a fender when the dinghy is being used.

There should always be a spare can of petrol under the seat of the dinghy.

Whenever possible I lock the dinghy to Mantra or to the shore.   Dinghies are a prime target for thieves.   Insurance is voided if the dinghy is not padlocked appropriately.

 

16. LAUNDRY 

At sea we do laundry in seawater and then rinse in limited amounts of fresh water.   Alternatively we rinse with collected rainwater.   If there's enough rainwater, we even wash with it as well as rinsing.

If clothes are fairly dirty then more than one sea water washing will be required.   The alternative of using more of our communal fresh tank water for extra rinses of one's personal laundry is not viable.    If you blow it with under-estimating the need for a second (or third!) sea water washing, then hope for rain!

In port we tend to use laundromats, despite the often seemingly high cost.

We treat the fresh water in our tanks with great care and conserve it as if the watermaker were about to fail.

I try not to put chlorinated water in the tanks as, firstly, our water is better and, secondly, as chlorinated water cannot be used for flushing, nor for cleaning the membranes of the watermaker if needed when re-commissioning it after not running it while in port.

We do not hang laundry anywhere near the cockpit, nor on the sails' sheets.

 

17. BOAT WORK 

Each person on Mantra has made an explicit committment to contribute what I refer to as "boat work" in addition to doing their share of boat handling, looking to sail handling & course keeping, looking out & log entries needed while under way, and their load of watchkeeping, cooking, washing up, and in addition to participating in any emergency repair work  and running repairs, and keeping clean their cabin & heads.

Not contributing one's quota of boat work is a reason for being asked to leave.    Not contributing willingly and of one's own initiative, rather than having to be asked, reminded or nagged is also reason for being asked to leave.   I do my share and more of boat work and I expect each person cruising with me to do their share at least, particularly as they have explicitly committed to doing that.   If they are happy to do more, then I'm even happier; thanks.

At sea this boat work involves ten hours a week per person, averaged over the duration of that passage leg.

In port / at anchor this boat work involves an average of fifteen hours a week,   more when in port for repairs, alterations, spring cleaning or antifouling. 

There are lists of boat work waiting to be done.   Having regard to the priority I accord to the different items and to the individual's skills, each person indicates which items he / she would prefer to take on and we agree what they will do.    A time tally is kept and a running balance is recorded.

The work on the lists ranges from maintenance, stored repairs, cleaning, wish list jobs, upgrading & improvements.   The lists are constantly updated with items achieved being deleted and new items being added. 

No boat work is due from a new member of crew their first three days.  They will be familiarising themselves with Mantra and getting their sea legs. 

After a passage of ten days or more no boat work is due on the day of arrival and the next day.  However on arrival there is a lot of washing off, cleaning and putting away and either readying dinghy or attending to lines & gangway, etc. 

Boat work time can be advance banked for use while at anchor / in port. 

Once the arrival work is done, it is not likely there would be a problem if someone wanted to vacate Mantra and go roaming for a period, provided there were a way of catering for our wanting to depart that place and not be held up waiting for our crew friend.   Also, if everyone were to want to depart for a few days, the issue would arise of who would look after the boat and deter thieves.  

If a member of crew does not participate actively in boat work and in helping and generally participating in life on Mantra while Mantra is in port and instead treats Mantra more as a hotel, then a commercial rate bed charge for a private room with en suite facilities will be levied per day.    If one wants to behave as if one is at a hotel, one should be at a hotel!

 

18. COCKPIT & DECKS 

Safety aspects involving cockpit are covered under Safety.

People need to become familiar with where the bimini / canopy panels are tied and how to roll them up.

There are grab rails in the bimini structure.  Please use them and please do not hold on to the material.  Everyone's hands have some grease on them no matter how clean they are.   Sunbrella + is not a material from which one can wash off grease marks..

There are full seat cushions for the inner cockpit seats.  There are also full mattresses for the "mezzanine" decks.  The good news is that these are soft and comfortable to sit on or lie on.  The unfortunate news is that they are not water repellent and must be put away (or fully shielded by closing the panels sufficiently) if it rains.

There are three Boat / US floating boat cushions for use by anybody and an unmarked one which I have reserved for my personal use ever since an earlier pair of crew demonstrated the facility to get these cushions really dirty.   I also have three inflateable headrests which people can use as soft pillows provided they do not let them blow away!   The pillows and bedding in the sleeping cabins are for use in the sleeping cabins and are not for use in the cockpit, nor on deck.

If you feel you will need a covering if you want to sleep outside, please use your own light sleeping bag or other covering of yours.   Also if you are going to want to annoint yourself with sun oil and then want to lie on the cockpit cushions / cockpit mattresses or on the trampolines or on deck, then please use your own ultra large towel or whatever else you have brought to lie on.

There is a hammock which crew are welcome to use and there is another one which I keep for myself.   We do not use the hammocks when the boat is moving as it would be unsafe.  Nor do we use them if the boat is (unusually) rolling a bit at anchor.

There are jacklines along the outside of the deck each side, and across to the mast, and from the mast to the centre bow.

The trampolines are very comfortable to lie on.  There is a construction design fault in the fixing of the trampolines. Please ensure you step very, very lightly onto them. I do not want to weaken them any more. Step onto them as if you were stepping onto eggs that you do not want to break. Once on the trampoline there is no problem with it supporting the weight of three people.   It is the strain caused when getting on to them that is the problem.

Apart from not walking on the two side windscreens (above desk and above fridge / galley sink) one can walk anywhere on deck.

 

19. KITTY 

As matters to do with money appear to cause more problems than most other topics between owners and crew and between different members of crew, this subject has been covered in great detail in the Cruising On Mantra web site notes, of which a printed copy is in this folder after this Operating Manual.

We do not spend lavishly but we do not go on the cheap either.   We do go in for quality in what we buy.   We eat well but tend towards medium size, rather than large, servings of food.

If you have any concerns or questions about the kitty (or about your bond money) now is the time to raise them.

 

20. WATCHKEEPING 

Usually there are no formal watches during the day.  Each person takes some of the load, but not on a scheduled basis. However at all times at least one person should be actively aware and in the cockpit.  If the active person is going to be out of the action for more than a few moments, then someone else should become actively aware of what is going on that could affect our safety. 

Formal watches usually start when the first person goes to bed or at around 9p30, whichever is the earlier and end around 8a30 or 9a30. Which watch I take depends on SSB radio schedules and on how many of us there are.   Radio schedules vary with part of the world.   If there are only two of us, it is likely we would do 3 hours on and 3 hours off to cover 12 hours of night and early morning watchkeeping. If there are three of us, we might do 4 hour watches or one x 4 and two x 3½.  I would usually split my watch into 2 + 2 and would take first and last.  That way I can cope with being woken as required for any problems.   The other two people work out how they would like to allocate the other two watches.   The advantage of the third watch is longer in bed before one's watch.  Its disadvantage is less sleeping time before daylight.  

The reasons why someone is on watch are to:

 Keep Mantra going in the desired direction

 Catch problems at an early stage

 Keep a lookout for shipping, etc

 Maintain VHF listening watch

 Record data as log entries & chart plots 

When one is on watch at night, one is in the cockpit except for very short periods inside to perform functions at nav desk, get food or use the head.  

Visual look out every 10 minutes when in areas where there could be other shipping.  Otherwise every 20 minutes.    Bear in mind that many cargo ships and other commercial vessels travel at 20 to 30 knots.   We travel normally at 4 to 8 knots. An oncoming vessel going at 25 knots with us going towards them at 5 knots would produce a closing speed of 30 knots, which is half a knot a minute.    We are unlikely to see them or to be seen (even as a noticed radar target) until 6 miles apart.   At a closing speed of 30 knots that 6 miles would be covered in only 12 minutes.  So, a good look all around at any interval greater than 10 minutes is taking a calculated risk with our lives and with the boat. 

While on watch at night, no music which could mask boat noises; otherwise one is not properly able to pick up problems as early as possible.   In all my cruising my experience has been that if anything is going to go wrong it is more likely to happen at twilight or during the night! 

Protect night vision by only using white lights when needed for log entries & chart work.    Certainly no reading of books. 

Going to sleep on watch is a complete no no.   If I were prepared to run the risks inherent in sleeping / catnapping instead of maintaining effective watchkeeping, then I would single-hand other than when old friends were around. 

One of the cardinal sins in sailing is to be late for relieving the person from whom you are taking over the watch.  You will need to arrive a good 5 minutes before official take-over time. Read on for why. 

BEFORE you relieve the watch you should read the log entries of the previous watches since you personally last reviewed the log entries.    What has been happening to the wind, to the barometer, to our course, etc?  What problems have arisen?  What does Mantra's progress look like on the chart?  Are there any dangers ahead or any upcoming course changes?   Just asking the person you are relieving if there has been anything of note IS NOT GOOD ENOUGH.

Then let the person you are relieving know you are ready and see if they have anything to tell you that they have omitted to put in the log.

To be able to familiarise yourself and take over in time you will normally need to allow at least five minutes BEFORE your watch officially starts.   

And remember it is an insult and a crime to be late for relieving the person who has done his / her watch and is tired and is waiting to be relieved. Also remember you review the previous log entries BEFORE you take over the watch, not after.

You are now on watch and it is likely that it will be the time to make one of the on-the-hour log entries & chart plot.

 See the section on LOG ENTRIES. 

Next look at the sails and the wind angle.   Check our course over the ground in relation to the bearing of our planned waypoint destination.  Do you need to make any alterations? Will the resultant wind angle be OK for the current set of the sails?  Shine the torch around.  Is the dinghy OK or is it rocking and causing strain & chafe?    Are there any signs of wear on the sails?  Are there ropes where one could trip over them? If so, coil them & tidy away.  Is the torch in its proper place?   In making your log entry you will have asked is the battery voltage OK and is there any water in the engine bilges.    Is the genoa sheet OK in relation to the bimini?    Is anything flapping? Has anything dropped and, if so from where and does it call for immediate action or does it only warrant a logged remark?   What does the weather look like?  Have we got the appropriate amount of sail up or should we anticipate?   Any strange noises?  Is the VHF outside speaker switch in the down position as it should be to hear VHF outside? 

Being on night watch is not just a passive question of being there.  It is an active, responsible matter of active listening, looking, observing, working things out, deciding and having the responsibility of looking after the boat and looking after the lives of your fellow crew members.

Remember that you should not leave the cockpit when alone on watch.  If there is something that needs doing on deck (or on the transom to get the Windhunter in), call someone.   If it is close to the end of your watch, call the next person due to go on watch.   If your watch has only just started and the person you've relieved has not had time to get off to sleep, choose them.   If in doubt or if it is a decision that is needed as well as another pair of eyes or hands, call me regardless of how much or how little sleep I have had and regardless of when I was last disturbed. 

It is a useful discipline and an excellent safety measure for the person on watch to wear a whistle round their neck. 

Everybody should note that if they hear a whistle it means the person is summoning assistance and either cannot get to someone to wake them or it is too urgent to walk to wake someone or that everyone is needed on deck NOW. 

I am a cautious sailor and I want my crew to go for risk avoidance rather than going for adrenalin stimulation.  We'll get enough adrenalin stimulation without actively seeking it !!

I prefer that we reef early rather than late.  I prefer to sail a longer route with less possibility of sails gybeing or backwinding than trying to pinch an extra bit of speed or cut a corner. 

Anyone who joins Mantra will have done so on the basis that they meet the crucial requirements, which include that they do not suffer from seasiskness.   If however you become seasick you MUST take seasickness remedies at the prescribed dosages & time intervals.   Being seasick does not absolve you from doing your watches and doing them properly.  In fact, doing something like steering by hand has been shown to alleviate sea sickness.

 

21. COOKING & WASHING UP 

Unless someone wants to take over the cooking or, say, to take over cooking of evening meals, we somewhat share the load of cooking.

I do not like cooking. Kathy does not enjoy cooking.   So we do encourage others to cook!

If we're on the usual of "sharing" cooking, I am more inclined to attend to breakfasts and to snack lunches than do all that many evening meals.

Before setting off, we discuss what to do about cooking.

We share the washing up.   If someone volunteers to take on the cooking, they are not expected to do washing up.

 

22. TOYS & RECREATION 

We have quite a few toys.    See the web site's notes on Cruising On Mantra for a fairly complete listing.

Recreation is close to being an objective, with relaxation!

I try to encourage recreation that involves the whole Mantra team, rather than individual passtimes.   On Mantra the social group is more important than the individual as that approach makes for a happier atmosphere / ambiance.

If you are into toys, games, activities, recreation, then please come up with suggestions that are more "social group" oriented than always only two person games or, say, each individual reading his / her individual book or doing things individually on his / her computer or even on his / her Psion hand held organiser.

I do not have problems with individuals reading or sitting at a computer or hand held organiser, but I do have problems with people doing that hour after hour, day after day and thereby not being a part of life on Mantra and , to add insult to injury, while they are engrossed with book or computer they probably are expecting other people to tend the sails, keep a lookouy, etc so that they personally are not disturbed!

I also have problems if people spend more time on a continuous round of two person games than on tending the boat and socialising.   In particular I have a problem if, because they play into the night, they then want to sleep the day away on their own rather than having meals together and being around, which I regard as being important contributors to cohesiveness of the Mantra team and to a happy atmosphere, and thereby an effective ship.

 

23. ANCHORING 

The anchor which is usually on the starboard roller is a French 40 kilo / 88 lbs FOB Brittany.

It is attached to 60 metres of 10mm chain which is attached to 100 metres of 3 strand nylon, the bitter end of which is secured to the starboard anchor bits by a short length of 8mm rope.

The chain is marked from 2m50 passing the cleat (ie: the 5m mark is when 7m50 of chain has passed the cleat).

We use a formula of "at least: 10 metres plus three times HW depth plus distance waterline to roller". The "plus distance waterline to roller" is already taken care of by starting the chain markings at 2m50 passing the cleat.

When lowering the anchor, stop every 5 metres.   That way anyone trying to attract your attention a better chance of being hear over the noise of the windlass.

When raising the anchor, stop every 5 metres and knock the top off the pile of chain that will be building up under the hawse hole.  Stop at cable tie marks so that you can notice if any cable ties need tightening.

Both when lowering and when raising, call out the amount of chain that is out and ensure that the person at the helm can hear you.

When raising, use your arm to indicate the direction in which the chain and (if not using a walkie talkie communicator) also to signal when the boat should be moved forward or sideways and when to stop. Arm up with palm open & up = stop. Arm up and waving forward = straight forwards.   Arm down and waving back = reverse.

We do use the engine to ease strain on the windlass.   We try not to pull the boat forward on the chain & windlass.

We let the anchor wriggle itself in before we set it and we do endeavour to take transits, as well as noting GPS lat / long, to check we are held.  We feel the chain to check dragging.

We use an anchor bridle.   We also use a snubber over the other roller.    When bridled and snubbed, we take the chain off the gypsy. Sometimes we put a light line through a link of the chain and onto the cleat.

We secure the anchor on the roller with light line onto the cleat.    

The chain is marked with cable ties every ten metres using Great Britain's Red White and Blue (and at each intermediate five metres using black cable ties). Therefore:

5m = black

10m = Red

15m = black

20m = White

25m = black

30m = Blue

After 30 metres there are double marks.  Therefore:

35m black black

40m Red Red

45m black black

50m White White

55m black black

60m Blue Blue

Max depth for us on all chain is 16m

The 100 metres of three strand nylon which is shackled to the 60 metres of chain is marked every TEN metres:

10m R

20m W

30m B

40m RR

50m WW

60m BB

70m RRR

80m WWW

90m BBB

100m RWB

Maximum depth for us on chain & 16mm three strand nylon is up to 47m on this formula, BUT:

Maximum depth for 150m chain/rope using the x5 scope formula is 30m. Using the x4 scope formula, max is 37m.  We do have much more anchoring rope to tack on to the lengths mentioned.

I set at least one GPS Anchor Alarm every time we are at anchor. The anchor alarms are expressed in decimals of a nautical mile. Thus:

0.01nm = 18metres

0.04nm =72m

0.05nm = 93m

0.06nm = 111m

0.07nm = 130m

 

The Shipmate GPS has a loud external alarm.  Unfortunately the Shipmate is not as good a GPS as the Furuno.  I am trying to get an external loud alarm fitted to the Furuno as its internal alarm is rather quiet.

When anchoring (and when docking) I like to use walkie talkie communicators, regardless of whether people might consider it wimpish or inconvenient or funny looking.

 

24. WEBSITE 

Please also read and re-read the details given on the www.geocities.com/paulonmantra website in addition to reading and re-reading this Mantra Operating Manual.   In particular, please ensure you are very familiar with the sections on Do's & Don'ts, Kitty, Mantra's Equipment, and Crew Specification.

 

25. CHECKLIST FOR WHEN YOU LEAVE 

Clean & disinfect the toilet

Get rid of used toilet paper & clean & disinfect the bin

Scrape hairs off shower sump pump inlet gauze and clean shower pan & sump

Check (& clean?) shower pump filter in cupboard under basin

"Spring clean" the heads

"Spring clean" the cabin, including the drawer, locker, bilges, shelf & wardrobe that have been used

Have towels & bedlinen laundered or ask someone to get it done for you

Re-make bed with clean bedlinen

If travel schedule does not permit laundering & bed making, then leave funds for laundromat load when kitty is liquidated & bond moneys refunded

Ask yourself "Have I left the cabin and heads in the state that I hoped to have found them?"

Participate in liquidation of the "kitty"

Receive back passport, air ticket if relevant and bond money or balance of bond money and execute a receipt. 

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